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How do you remove an add-in link in outlook signature In my signature i have the business address and it is fine while working in outlook, but once it is sent the business address turns blue and has a dashed underline. When you put the mouse over it it has a pop up box saying "click or tap to open add-in" and it takes you to bing ...

A few months ago, I bought a new Dell laptop with Windows 11. It uses a 4-digit PIN to log in. Everything was fine until this morning, when it updated the BIOS. Then it complained that the Service Tag hadn't been set. When Windows started, it said: “Something happened and your PIN isn't available. Click to set up your PIN again.” I click, and it offers me a Microsoft account log in dialog. I try to log in, and it wants to send me an e-mail to confirm. Problem is, that email account was closed down after I created the Microsoft account. I can still go to https://account.microsoft.com/ on another machine, and log on just fine. I tried changing me e-mail address for that account, but it says it will take 30 days to change! I'm in a real pickle here. Is there anything I could try?

I'm looking at discarding the supplied PSU to a mains-powered router (currently 240VAC > 12VDC @ ~1A), and to operate the unit instead via high-capacity batteries (field use), to increase efficiency (a reduction in wasted energy and heat dissipation), and thereby increasing operational time from said batteries. The router PCB demands ~+12VDC IN, but then converts (DC-DC) down to +4VDC. I'm intending on tapping into the +4VDC rails of the PCB - bypassing the circuit's own DC-DC. My question is: what, theoretically, would be an ideal VIN to achieve this efficiency (and battery longevity) goal, ie. +5VDC (> +4VDC), +9VDC, +12VDC. I'd be using Analog Devices' LT3045 chip to achieve this, which has a very low 'drop out voltage'. My own understanding is that the highest achievable efficiency should be where VIN and vOUT are closest to each other, but that other factors may play a part

So how deep does the immersion go and what is the malwarepack called as? I really find may similarities to one about a year ago. But playing with this for a while I wonder How many different things it is possible to amulate and fake. How about BIOS through? Is is salvagble at the end or not? And where can I find some control app or command listing for wireless dbg so play with the connection. So what after i have playing as much I want? Can I make way back to position that nothing dii happen.

I spanned some (3) disks together as a temporary measure in windows 10 meaning to copy all the data over to a 6 disk raid for safety's sake, To make a sad story short , I never got around to getting the copy done and windows June update did SOMETHING to destroy the volume. After the update upon the (first) boot(s) windows would stall at the swirling circle and one of the disks in the spanned set would be at 100% usage for hours . I finally just shut the system down and have been trying to get the disks back together since. This is all part of moving to a new MOBO weeks ago (hence the temp spanned). This volume basically has about 20 years of documents,programs, taxes, etc. not to mention downloads and software from years gone by. I should mention it was just fine until rebooting from the update. I move those disk over to the old mother board with the pre-update windows installed on it from a cloned disk (in case the move went badly moving to ssd ) not connected to the inter

Dell Display Manager 2.x installation failed with the error - 'failed to set process mitigation policy 87' (Windows10/64) download - https://www.dell.com/support/product-details/en-in/product/dell-display-manager-2.0/drivers

It is necessary to capture video in ffmpeg so that it works continuously without restarting. I don’t need to re-encode it, just capture it, and I need it to automatically divide the video into 2-minute segments and name the files according to the current time. I managed to do it, but without segmentation, by running a loop, but the gap between pieces of video is about 9 seconds. Stream rtsp from IP-camera. Help please.

I wiped my two Kingston SA400S37960G SSDs in Linux with badblocks -wsv /dev/sda and badblocks -wsv /dev/sdb commands which were executed at the same time. Both tests reported 0 bad blocks found, but one SSD finished within 7 hours and the other SSD took over 30 hours to complete. According to Linux, both SSDs were connected in SATA-3 mode. However, I turned off the PC, swapped the SATA cables between the SSDs, started a short test with smartctl for SSDs and ensured that they both passed, stored the SMART data and then reran the badblocks commands. Again, the same drive took 4-5 times longer to wipe. I also checked the SMART data(smartctl -a /dev/sda and smartctl -a /dev/sdb) after the wiping, but there were no new reported read errors, reallocated sectors or anything similar. In addition, temperature of the SSDs was pretty much identical when the badblocks ran. As the SSDs report

I'm a user of Microsoft Powertoys, and using most of tools. But sometimes, I'll forgot some of hotkeys while need to use the tool. In such time, I'll open Powertoys, find the utility and see hotkey in settings. This is time-consuming.. Is there a feature in Powertoys to show list of hotkeys in enabled tools like the Windows Hotkeys help tool: Ideas I’ve considered (without success): A global hotkey to summon a help page (e.g., Win+?). A command-line dump of active hotkeys (e.g., via powertoys.exe --list-hotkeys). Third-party tools, but I’d prefer a native PowerToys solution. How do I get a list of all the active hotkeys for PowerToys?

A few days ago, when trying to install 2025-05 Cumulative Update for Windows 10 Version 22H2 for x64-based Systems (KB5058379), I received this error message: We encountered problems installing updates. We'll try again later. If this error persists and you'd like to search the web or contact support, this error code may be helpful: (0x80073701). So I tried again, but the update installation stopped at 20%, and after a relatively long time, about 10 minutes, the same error message appeared again. Unlike my other PC, it's definitely not due to a lack of hard drive space; I have more than 100GB free. I searched the internet for solutions to this problem, but none of the solutions I found helped. Here's what I tried: A tool to reset the Windows Update Components Have downloaded